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Hello all, back with more problems.
When I went to retorque my head studs I noticed that a couple of them were weeping coolant. Is this something I can fix by simply putting new paint over the top; or is that just going to be like putting lipstick on a pig?

I mean that's an obvious symptom of a head gasket leak EXCEPT that you used a new head gasket, right? How much did the heads come untorqued in the meantime?

I don't see how paint would stop a pressurized coolant system from leaking, so did you mean that in terms of aesthetic touch-up, or?

Packard went to a special rolled thread to help with this issue on engines made after 48. On a 48 you may or may not have had this stud but even if so equipped, sometimes during later repairs the special studs were not available so a damaged rolled thread stud was removed and block retapped for regular cut thread studs or in Don's case with his Henney, a regular bolt all of which have cut threads that were prone to leaking. It is also possible you have found an issue during the retorquing of rusted out or damaged block threads or a damaged stud just waiting to fail at an inopportune time.

If it held the new torque and it is a small weep and no danger of any coolant leaking into a cylinder it may reseal with time or you may be able to use one of the circulating sealants used in sealing up porous castings . Those go into the coolant and harden when they leak out and get exposed to air. If you don't want to try that -- and it may be a good idea to check the condition of the stud and threads anyway, then you will probably need to remove the leaking studs and put thread sealant on the threads going into the block.

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Are they still leaking after a retorque?

Some of the studs that go into a water-jacket area probably need thread sealer on them

A bandaid fix may be those radiator-stop leak tablets.

Yes there is a brand new head gasket in there.

There is still coolant coming out after the retorque and only on studs above the water jacket.
Only some of the nuts moved a little bit, if at all.
I also only had it get up to temp a few times before the retorque. Should I maybe just try to retorque after more heat cycles?

I am unsure if I have the rolled or cut threads.
If the threads are rolled would they be rolled on the block side as well as the head side or just the block?
I ask because I know it is going ti be a pain to get the studs out as the machine shop i took it to said they tried but were unable to get any of them loose.
If they need thread sealer I am not sure I will be able to even get them out.

I want to do this right, not just put a bandaid on the problem.

Attached the most detailed photo I could find of the studs.

They are rolled only on the block end. In my own recent work that Howard so nicely mentioned with some reproduction studs from Tucson Packards, nuts would go on one end only but not on the other although I always use high temperature thread sealer anyway whenever replacing studs just as added insurance.

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Does that make sense? If the threads are virtually undisturbed , why are there now leaks from around the studs? I don't have the answers, maybe someone smarter than me (wouldn't be hard) does?

They have an interference fit so often require some heating of the block to remove them.

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That was a thought I too had creeping in the back of my mind…

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Good to know,