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Thanks!

Primary parts vendors for NOS are Kanter Auto, Max Merritt and Tucson Packards. All have websites and probably used parts too. Joel Ray sells some NOS items on his ebay store and several used parts dealers such as Packards Southwest and Seattle Packards sell via ebay listings as well as phone sales.

6v light bulbs are usually available at NAPA and are also sold by vendors such as YnZ Yesterdays Parts and several others. YnZ also carries new wire that looks like the old style cloth covered wire. If you order from them there may be a minimum charge so if you need more than one item try to get other things to have a decent size order.. The owners manuals which are in the literature archive typically have a chart with numbers and specifics of most bulbs used. There are a couple of manual versions for the 23rd series depending on whether car was early or late production.

Packard did not use fuse blocks until 55 so most fuses are inline. The owners manuals usually have a chart with an approximate location where the inline fuse holder might be found. They did use some circuit breakers and the occasional fuse mounted directly on the switch or another electrical item or on the back of the instrument cluster. Note that Packard used SFE type fuses which require holders that are physically sized specifically for the amperage of the fuse called for. In other words a frequently used 3, 9, 14, or 30 amp SFE fuse will not work in a holder sized for a 20 amp and most modern commonly found AGC type glass automotive fuses will not work in any older SFE holders other than the 20 amp holder.

A surprising number of old Packard items can still be found at Napa and occasionally other parts stores but it takes some sleuthing and sometimes a counterperson willing to look in old printed catalogs rather than try to pull an item up on a computer. It also helps to have a counterperson old enough to know Packard was the mfg not some model built by Ford or GM. Even tho Packard has been gone for nearly 70 years there are still a few people working counters that have heard of them.

Thank you very much Howard! Much appreciated.

Packard Parts:
Max Merritt Packard Parts, Franklin IN
Patrician Industries/Joel Ray, MI
Bob’s Packard Parts, PA
Seattle Packard, WA
Kanter Brothers, NJ
Tucson Packard, AZ
Speedwell Garage, Parkton MD

All can be found with Google or on the Directory.

If you need something that is common but not a "wear item" and the online vendors are too rich for your blood, feel free to post here:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewforum.php?forum=8
Most owners have random spare parts lying around that they will sell for cheaper than a big name supplier.

I used to be Packards California, a licensed business, and still have some inventory although mostly used now.

FM, don't know why the below two long-established vendors omitted:

Jeff Adkins, Moose Motors, Penngrove (Petaluma, CA in the North Bay), 1935-56 mechanical and electrical parts (no cosmetic/trim). Jeff's a lifelong multiple Packard-owning wrench who also rebuilds components, prompt turnaround, even has the original Packard jigs to rebuild Packard pressure plates which have adjustable fingers, something the no more stronger yet commonly used Ford truck clutches lack. Rebuilds carbs, starters, distributors, stocks R-9, R-11 overdrive transmissions, Ultramatics and their parts. Drum brake parts for all old domestic cars Auburn through Zephyr, supplying same to NAPA and other regional parts houses. (707) 576-1676 packardguy54@sbcglobal.net

https://julrichpackard.com/

John carries all manner of parts 1928-47 both junior and senior.

Please tell these reputable pros that Mike, '47 Super Clipper, Walnut Creek referred you.

PS. While i want Jeff Adkins, Mike Chirco at Tucson Packard, and John Ulrich not to be overlooked, and though i've lauded him in the past, another shout out to Max Merritt Packard's genial, most helpful Mike Grimes, (317) 736-6233, ext. 103, mike@packardparts.com

www.packardparts.com

There's a "parts cross-reference" tab on the left that has most of the available new service replacements listed. May not be 100% up to date but good place to start.

My standard recommendation is anything more than 30 years old should have the wiring thoroughly checked/replaced all or as needed. This era used the cloth wrap over rubber insulation and it cracks first then deteriorates flakes off, plus the exposed copper will corrode unseen, increase resistance and cause heat and lead to fires. I had a horn wire catch fire on the CAD, melted the relay, when the paper insulator on the horn rim degraded and slowly shorted. The old slow fuses won't blow with a drain like that. Lucky I caught in time. Many have lost valuable cars from trying to "maintain" factory originality. Don't be foolish, if your already seeing wiring issues.
My '49 wiring was pretty much stripped clean by field mice and insectia.

I think you have to adapt to modern maintenance standards and materials in the context of the old ways. What was recommended in 1950 probably doesn't exist today and certainly won't be cost effective. Even the fuels have change alot. Two camps; originalists and the smart. Boy that should get 'em going!

For testing old wiring, just handle the wiring some. Don't yank on it but a lot of these cloth wires will literally fall apart just from basic handling. If this is the case, then they are likely already shot in the areas you can't see, where maybe mice have ate them or they have abraded on something.

Even on my 55 with modern plastic wiring there was a lot of mice damage. Fortunately the insulation is good enough still that I can just splice them back together.

I took every bit of wiring out of my 54 and replaced it. Even though it was plastic-covered wiring, there were still places where the insulation was cracking off. Not to mention the damage that rats caused to the original harness. Also, there are areas of the body where parts of the harness go over sharp regions of the body unprotected, which can abrade the insulation over time. The worst area I saw was where the rear feed harness comes up the A-Pillar and across the roof. That is a sharp area at the top of the pillar where it makes that hard turn. I covered the harness in that plastic split loom tubing in just that area just to give it some extra protection. A short there near old headliner material would not be a good thing.