Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

It is correct that you never, ever hit on the end of the puller. There have been other discussions here about what happens if you do and it wasn't pleasant! Sometimes on very stubborn drums you have to be very patient by giving it considerable rotational pressure with a sledge hammer, waiting (and maybe warming the hub a little), then more pressure and more waiting. It may take hours or even days but it will come off! I've also had good experience using an impact tool with socket on the end. Just be sure to leave the nut threaded on to its fullest without the washer, leaving only a small gap (maybe the washer's thickness) between it and the hub.

The shims in question are behind the backing plate and may stick to the axle end. They may even appear to be a part of it. I suppose it's possible to have one without shims too but I've never seen one.

Will double check they're not stuck to something.

Possible some bozo took them off in the past without replacing them.

One only needs to set the axle shaft end play on one side. Perhaps the shims are on the other, yet to be disassembled side.

I had shims on both sides of my '54 when disassembled.

My 1951 Henney-Packard had them on only one side too although there was only one very thin one on the right. The left had, I believe, three and some were substantial.

Ok I need some advice here. I'm trying to remove this locking nut to replace the seal behind it. I don't want to tear apart the whole diff unless necessary but as far as I'm aware only this nut is required.

However I can't get it off. This setup should give about 200 ft pounds and it's not budging.

How do I get this nut off? Just even more torque?

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Maybe an impact wrench will have enough oomph to get it off where a regular breaker bar doesn't. It did the trick on the axle nuts of my 1951 which are quite substantial.

1/2" impact, either air or one of those 20 volt battery jobs, and heat. Let Blaster soak for A day. Heat nut on 1 or 2 flats with propane torch or small oxy/acet torch, and use impact. PB

Ghandi was wrong. Violence is the answer. But before that, mark your yoke, the nut, and the shaft with a punch or whatever so you can put it back exactly the same as it was to preserve the preload on the bearings.

And in addition to making the marks, others have cautioned you need to count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut in order to get it back on in the exact position. Counting may be difficult if it suddenly breaks free with the impact tool.