Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

JW, it was a 21st engine. I happened on that photo after the 48 parts manual showed the other setup. What is rattling the remaining brain cell is the factory difference in routing between a 356 and 327 & just trying to understand why. Carb & pump are in the same place.

Not a big deal for sure, but I would think that the front tube might have a slight advantage for keeping fuel cooler away from manifold or am I missing something.

Joe Santana is working on a 40 & while it is a later engine, I think still a 356. His is coming out the front like the 327.

Here is a shot of the hardline routing on my car. The new line was bent using the original line as a template.

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Okay BigKev, you've now set a standard for my motor to shoot for as I work my way through this car. Here's where it was when I found it but don't judge a book by its cover; a day later it was running smooth as silk...

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Michal,

Here is the before and after on my motor.....this should show anything is possible at home with some basic tools and time. Except for the air cleaner, battery, hoses, and wire, everything else you see are the same parts the car came with. Just rebuilt, and repainted.

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Kev,

Fantastic job! I LOVE seeing a great engine bay. I'll post my pics soon, almost done with the SAME project. Rebuild and painted most parts. A small bead blasting cabinet for $150 (JUST big enough for the manifolds) and a parts washer was a GREAT investment for this job.

Also, Kimball Midwest makes a heavy solids black paint that lays easy, no primer needed, sticks to and over everything including grease and residue. It did a great job on my 50 for the steering parts and frame rails etc.

I routed my fuel lines out of the carb toward the fender, then over and down, to keep the fuel pressure gauge and glass bowl filter from being directly over the heat from the exhaust manifold.

Edit: Michal,

That's exactly how the 288 i pulled out of my car looked, and the whole engine bay. It was the quietest and finest running motor I've ever owned. Hoping the 327 tops it :)

Short update: I pulled the fuel pump and sent it off to Feltz in TX. We spoke a few times by phone; very nice guy and highly recommended. A week later I had a gorgeous rebuilt pump installed. I decided to run an experiment (and make life a little easier for myself) by plumbing with rubber hose. I do like the appearance of hardline but was eager to get on the road. I also figured if I was suffering from vapor lock, rubber would be a better insulator for my fuel than metal.

Well, I remain convinced sticking to the mechanical fuel pump is the way to go if there was one there in the first place and you're not making big modifications. That motor just seems quieter, happier, and has been much more reliable in hot starting than before. Haven't hit a warm enough day for a true test but I have made a few 70+ mph runs at close to a 1/2 hour each without complaint from the motor.

Now, handling is another story and it's pretty bad. Who wants to offer up an opinion on where to start? A good bump in the road causes a bad swing L & R as well as up & down. I'm thinking my shocks are unevenly worn and my stiff old tires aren't helping. What's the hot ticket on shocks and rubber for this car?

Thanks as always for everyone's help,

Michal

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Did you check the hydraulic oil level in your shock absorbers? It's not uncommon for them to be low or empty.

I can personally recommend Apple Hydraulics if you need to get them re-built. You can get your front end rubber from Steele Rubber, Kanter Bros, or Max Merritt (although I think most of it comes from Steele Rubber anyway).

I put WWW Diamondback radials on my '50 and have been very happy with them. I wouldn't recommend doing too many 70+ mph test runs on 'old stiff tires' .

That fuel pump looks great!

I think cortcomp has his labels reversed on the fuelpump side of the picture. The section with 2 ports pretty much has to be the pump outlet (is it even possible to install both check valves upside down?) I have seen some packard pumps with the outlet facing front, some with it rear.

You really want to install a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the pump & the carb. If you have 4-5 psi when it stalls/ no starts, the the mech pump probably won't help. (if you have low pressure, it could be the pump, it's power supply, a leak in the suction hose from pump to tank, or junk floating around in the tank that temporarily blocks the pickup tube.)

Carb float level might be too high, or carb might be over heating - check if the heat riser valve is stuck or flopping "closed".

(Your eng is REALLY purty!)

There have been numerous references to the "rubber" in the front ends of '41 Clipper through 23rd series cars as needing replacement if handling is poor. The only rubber in the front end suspension are the four 1" diam (approx) bushings on the bottom of the stabilizer links. The rest of the front end suspension has threaded metal bushings and shafts or pins. We manufacture all of these parts.

ON the greasable threaded shafts/pins with bushings there are rubber collars which keep the grease in and the dirt out. If these are worn or missing it doesnot affect handling at all but will affect how long the metal parts will last. There are also rubbber upper and lower rebound bumpers which we make.

We do not buy any of the rubber parts from Steele. Instead of speculating and giving people the wrong impression, just ask and get the correct information firsthand.

Great info Fred. I had no idea such a longstanding figure in the community was checking in here. Kudos for setting the record straight; I won't hesitate to throw questions your way...

Michal