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Mal, regarding Ernie's discussion on connecting the distributor vacuum chamber line from a ported outlet in the carburetor to a fitting on the intake manifold.

The full manifold vacuum at idle is what does the trick by fully advancing the vacuum chamber's timing. An advanced ignition timing seems to allow the engine to run cooler at idle. We know that a retarded ignition timing will contribute to higher temperature, especially at idle. Connecting the line to the manifold will not affect how the chamber advances and retards the timing once the engine speed is up.

I do this job by setting the timing at specified idle speed with the line disconnected and plugged. Reconnecting the line will speed up the engine. I then reset the engine idle speed and mixture when the line is reconnected. I have found that the engines run just as smoothly or even better with this arrangement, and they run cooler at idle.

I have a pet complaint calling them vacuum advances. They are a modulator device activated by increasing and decreasing vacuum.

Give it a try, you can always go back to the old set-up. JWL

"...one of Peter Packard's special reverse radiator flushes"

There are YouTube videos of this, but couldn't find one quickly. Instead, here's a series of photo's when my '38 Eight received this "procedure" about 10 years ago. Uses exhaust gas pressure from another vehicle, in this instance a BIG Daimler, to push the coolant through the system in an "explosive" action. Also done to a couple of Packards in the carpark of the host motel at the National Rally a few years later, a '36 120B and a '19 Twin Six. In the last picture you can see the Flackmaster in the far background. He was the "tap attendant" and, at a signal from Peter Packard, he'd turn the water on or off. Notice too, that a Clipper was used to provide the exhaust gas pressure for the "procedure". Although very messy, it is nevertheless very effective. And it's done both ways, a number of times, so all rust, gunk, sediment, etc is removed.

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Are both the radiator hoses disconnected from the engine? Looks like awful messy work. Did this solve the overheating issues, or just a temporary fix?

Thanks

How is the "water" for flushing introduced into the system??

The very few times I've done radiator flushing, I've done it using a flushing gun as below using water and bursts of compressed air. I did the block and radiator separately to avoid getting debris from the block getting forced into the radiator tubes. Results were good. This type of flushing gun is not uncommonly seen at antique car flea markets.

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Saturday 24th March, 2018

After cleaning the Packard, refilled the front shocks with the left taking 5mls and the right 20mls. Also refilled the radiator, took about 1.25litres, then did a 21kms, 13 miles, round trip to take in a market day. Was about 20C = 68F with the gauge staying at just over half. Tomorrow intend to do a 160kms, 100 miles, round trip to take in the Goulburn Swap Meet, but I won't be there for the 6:00am start time! Temperature in Goulburn is expected to be about 27C = 80F. Now have infrared thermometer, a cheap one off eBay, but it should give a reasonable indication of what and where it's hot.

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Sunday 25th March, 2018

After topping up the shocks again, 5ml left and 15ml right, it was an easy run down the highway to meet up with RobertS at the Goulburn Swap Meet. Robert had parked his '35 1201 Eight Sedan in the area reserved for car club members. But that area wasn't highly populated with only Robert, myself, 2 Austin Healeys and an FJ Holden Sedan. The Healeys departing soon after I arrived! The trip down, again with one eye on the temp gauge, was uneventful. The needle going to just over 1/2 but not making it to 2/3. On pulling up at Goulburn took some temp readings on the left side of the block and the right side of the head using the el cheapo infrared thermometer. Results are pictured below. Also found that water was bubbling out from under the radiator cap!

And funny thing there wasn't a Packard part to be found. Next time, need to enlist the services of the Flackmaster who "can smell Packard Parts". Not much Pre WW2 stuff at all, mostly Aussie Ford and Holden stuff. But plenty of bric-a-brac, etc. Lots of vendors, many more than I expected. And saying that, Robert and I didn't see all of them in strolling around for our 1/2 day there. Though there might be some Packard parts next year! Robert is talking about setting up a stall, not for Packard parts but for some of the stuff from the business he retired from. If Robert's going to be there, I might just bring some Packard stuff along to lift the tenor of the day!

For the return journey substituted another radiator cap, this was an old one from the Coupe, and on arriving home found that this cap appeared to be sealing OK. During this journey the temp gauge was going up to about the 3/4 mark. Varying the speed, ie old leadfoot here easing off the loud pedal, brought the needle back to the 2/3 mark. As did flicking the switch on the pusher fan in front of the radiator.

Obviously still running too hot. But I'm waiting on Peter Packards return from the NZ National Rally early next month to talk with him about giving my Packard the "treatment". Will also source a new Stant 10206 radiator cap(Thanks, Packard Parts Cross-Reference). Once the treatment has been effected, will test again.

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Bought 2 Stant 10206 caps online after finding them listed in the Parts Cross Reference as being the right part. Now wondering if they will fit the radiator neck on my Packard?

Because I then found some info on Stant 10206 radiator caps which lists Cap Depth as 1.41"(= 35.8mms). Also lists Other Part Numbers: 255300, P7006, 7006, 133-8011, 33003, 12R31, RC3 and Interchange Part Numbers: T6, 9T6, 31306, T-6, BR-6, 11206, 1678-520479, P-6.

Then, looking at the 2 caps I have, the one that came on the car has no identifiers on it while the cap that came off the '41 Coupe is a Stant R6!

Measuring the depth of the radiator filler neck on the Packards radiator = 26mms, or fractionally a little more than 1".

While both radiator caps, best as I can measure, are also 26mms each deep!

Obviously those two caps don't/won't seal because they aren't deep enough for the spring to compress! Wondering with the approximately 10mm(0.4") greater depth of the Stant 10206, will the cap spring compress sufficiently to permit the cap to work?

Can someone measure the depth of their radiator filler neck and confirm it is 26mm, approx 1"? Earlier years should work too as the Cross Reference says 40->50.

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Sometimes called long reach caps over here and at 26-27mm as measured from the rubber seal to the top sealing flange it is the same in comparison with the one on the 47 which I believe was the same length as used thru 54. As far as I know it was functional on the car before it was taken apart almost 20 years ago.

Modern shorter caps which Packard went to in 55 are about 21mm and definitely won't seal.

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Thanks Howard.