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A theft-proof # of 231X57 without end brackets is within the range of the very earliest 1936 "120" cars. This seems logical enough if the body was selected to work up a prototype for the following model year.

I'd say that read 231957, looks like the tail of a 9 at the edge of that hole

Hmmm...interesting. What would appear to be a 36 cowl would have to have significant modifications to transform into a 37 - most notably the dashboard is completely different for 37, and of course the taller windshield for 37. It would be interesting to see if "transitional changes" were made to this cowl, I would think still visible with leadwork for the windshield or weldmarks for the dash, or alternately, it is a 36 firewall panel welded into a 37 cowl? 36 and 37 door shells also have different exterior stamping profiles around the window....that might be interesting to photo as well...As I said, hmmm.....

This is turning out to be a very interesting car/story.

The motor number and casting date may also turn out to be interesting. On a separate/unrelated note I recently obtained an engine from an "original one-owner" 37-120 with a very low X1xxxxx serial number. Funny thing, the casting date on the block is 6-1-36 and it ALSO has a 36 serial number stamped into it. And it has the 37 style crankcase vent tube... if Packards could talk....

Jared (JKowFam), don't give up.
Dave (Owen_Dyneto), who contributed the below shown Packard typeface ATF #348, will support you to raise the last veil.

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Yeah, looks like the missing digit could well be a "9", not that that adds anything to our understanding.

Flackmaster raises some really interesting points, it would be nice to get a forensic analysis.

Interesting, thank you. I would agree it looks like a 9, too. I'm still chatting with RogerDetroit about a possible trip to visit the car. At the very least, I would happily take photographs of specific parts if anyone would like to list suggestions.

I may have mentioned earlier that my only goal in terms of keeping something from the car for myself is to see if the engine/transmission can be salvaged. If there is some forensics value in the car, does anyone have suggestions on how to approach that job with minimal damage to the rest of the vehicle? Most of the frame is packed in sand or has rusted away completely. But what is above-ground is surprisingly strong. My current theory is to lift the front coachwork and firewall up and off.

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Again, every picture tells a story. That is a 1936 radiator- or at least the top neck/tank. Installing a 36 radiator in a 37 can be done, but does take some adaptation. The oil fill tube is possibly later (taller). And of course the engine number pad....

As for the engine, I would NOT expect it to be worthwhile, such that it has been open to the harsh elements for years. There is nothing special about the engineering of this engine to learn from, about as sophisticated as a 9N tractor, which, would at least have some utility... That, and of course the later engines did have some notable improvements. Hence the sad statement that this car's only value is either sentimental or historical. Same for the body, for example there is a mostly complete, way way more solid 115C touring sedan out on the west coast, seen in the craigslist listing string, for $2500.

Jared,

Speaking about the engine, have you noted the engine number yet? I've skimmed back through your posts but couldn't see it mentioned. If you do have it, could you post it please? It may give another clue in helping to date and identify the car. If you don't have the engine number yet, using this link could help in finding it. Also any casting dates and numbers on the engine block could be helpful too.

flackmaster and Ozstatman,
I certainly appreciate the honest assessment of the situation, it is a long shot. But we still might give it a try since it might be worth a little effort to have some fun and answer some questions. We are very curious to see what condition the crank and bearings are in, which probably depends on how long the oil pan survived down there. When I finally cut the lower radiator hose just last month, the inside was dry and scaly like it had been that way for some time. Is it odd that the freeze plus are all intact? I'll be looking for the block numbers when I go up north again.

fascinating and intriguing subject......Thanks for the pictures and thoughts posted.