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I have a 1937 packard 120. I need to remove the rear brake drum due to cylinder leaking. I've had 2 young mechanics attempt to remove drum. One used a 3 lug drum puller & the other used a five lug drum puller . Both tried using a sledge hammer on the wheel puller. It did not bluge. Heat has been mentioned for removal. I'm concerned about the damage this might incur. Do you think using heat would be a safe thing to do? Do you have any other suggestions? I don't know how long it has been since brakes were changed. I'd appreciated any advise that you can give me. Thanks, Richard

Use a substantial puller such as this dogbone puller. Pound on the ends of the dogbone to keep tightening pressure on the hub. It may take overnight. Do NOT take the large nut completely off. You only need to loosen it about 3-4 turns. Be patient and keep tension on the hub. It may let go with a bang, but the nut will keep it from flying off and doing some damage.

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Randy's procedure is the way most of us do it and it may even take longer than overnight if it hasn't been off for a long time. Don't think I'd use heat because they all eventually come off but a very small amount probably wouldn't hurt --but might not help either.

I just finished pulling the rear brake drums from my 115C using a drum/hub puller like in the photo. It may take some hammering to get the drum to break loose from the axle, but it will come. Many folks also hammer on the end of the puller to exert some force to help break the drum loose. I do not recommend doing this as it can damage the wheel bearings. I just posted the bearing and seal numbers on the X-Ref section. Look under 115C. The seals should be easy to source locally, and maybe so the bearings. Good luck.

This is not from Packard experience, it is from kid experience with my '57 Chevy. The instructions were to heat the hub of the drum until you heard a "ping", before trying to pull the drum. I used a propane torch at the time.

So, I don't think a reasonable amnount of heat will hurt. These days I would use Mapp Gas.

For what it is worth, distant memory is that on the Chevy the lugs were mounted to the axle flange.

In addition to Randy's procedure, be sure to release the emergency brake and back off the brake shoes. Good luck!

The '57 Chevy uses a flanged rear axle and is different from the tapered shaft that is on the Packards (pre '56). The Packard uses lug bolts that screw into the drum where the Chevy uses lug nuts that screw onto studs attached to the axle flange and protrude through the drum. These are different designs and require different procedures for drum removal. While heat may help with the Chevy situation, I don't think heat will help with the Packard drum removal.

This is a pic of me pulling off the rear drum on my '54. The puller I am using is a BluePoint that is about 25+ years old. It will come off just keep hammering. Also make sure the e-brake is off, and the retract the shoes with the adjuster to make just it's not hung up. As the others have said, leave the axle nut on, just loose enough. When it "pops" it will sound like a shot-gun going off.

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Quote:
G'day Richard,
Amongst all the technical advice I'd like to you to PackardInfo. And invite you to please include your '37 in the Owner Registry together with a pic, any known history and how you acquired it.

Richard, one more thing about pulling the brake drums: When re-assemblying (yes, you will get them off), do not lubricate the taper end of the axle or the drum where it fits unto the axle, just make sure these surfaces are clean. This is important. Also, you will need to torque the axle nuts to 200 ft. lbs. Don't forget the cotter pins too.