Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I didn't want to tag this along with the other thread.
Is there a way of coaxing the tube out of it's hole? Pulling on it is not doing anything.

Some have had luck getting an old bandsaw blade or one of the continuous power hacksaw blades roughly 1/2 inch wide and breaking it so you have a long stiff and thin piece of metal. Slide that down very carefully and try to work around each side to free the sediment and corrosion. You might also get a long heavy wire and bend it to grab some of the holes farther down the tube. Don't use too much force or the wire will pull and tear the brass holes.

If you have the misfortune to have had one of the aftermarket or maybe it was war era galvanized steel tubes installed, that could be rusted so badly you will have a mess of a time getting it out. There are photos posted of a couple of those that are rusted almost in half or so filled with corrosion that it has misshapen the metal.

From a 1938 Eight which had a aftermarket steel distribution tube. Obviously much of it in small pieces remained in the engine block and would at the least require removing the core plugs and "going fishin" for the rest.

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This:
The needle nose has serrations on the beak, clamp them good and wack the pliers.

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'Cause the WDT is being restrained in place by the buildup of rust flakes and gunk, thinking(haven't tried it) that using a high pressure water cleaner/blaster down the inside and outside of the tube could help free it up. It would be messy, to say the least, but if your engine is out of the car or the car can be pushed outside it might be an option. Besides if the water jackets are gunked up you'll need to do something along these lines anyway.

Whoa! "e pluribus unim"
I got the air gun(instead of water) and blasted all around the entrance between the tube and the block. Then I got the hack saw and a cushion for the pushing end and started "jugin" (southern term)it on all sides of the tube. Then I got the pointy nose vise grips, and straight claw hammer and a regular hammer and created a slide hammer.
Voila!
Most of the crud seemed to be within the reach of the hack saw blade.(red oval)
Out of many suggestions, one successful result.
Thanks Gents.

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2 more questions.
There are what appears to be 4 evenly spaced "pinched" areas. Are they there by design?

There are 2 holes (red circles) in the end of the tube are they supposed to be there or are they supposed to be soldiered closed? If I knew what was down there I might be able to figure it out but I don't.

Thanks Gents

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With the tube out, this is a good time to reverse flush the block.

Also, there is a drain petcock on the lower portion of the block as well.

This is a tear down for an overhaul. I got that covered.